Daegu residents may recognise this ajumma, who roasts chestnuts in the winter outside the express bus terminal. She serves this popular winter street food regardless of the weather, and I hope her small stove is enough to keep the frost out of her eyebrows.

She is also one of the few women I have seen smoking in public. It’s still taboo here in Korea, but getting to a certain age often means flouting social propriety. This ajumma was tougher than most, and looked like taboo was the least of her worries.